Do you need your EVO X to have more exact and direct moves? Then you need to get the new shifter bushings. They are generally simple to introduce and are cost effective. The adjustments made to the EVO X will be perceptible and are amplified when they are joined with the meshed stainless steel grasp line and grip restrictor evacuation. You will require an opened screwdriver most specifically a Phillips one, 12mm ratchet wrench and a little steel but you can still use the ball point of a pen to serve the same purpose.
- Guarantee that the car is off and comfort at the middle is free from anything. Undo the two visible screws that are situated inside and at the base of the support.
- Detach the shift knob. You may achieve this by turning it anti-clockwise until you are able to make it completely free for removal.
- Release the hooks that hold the middle part from the front by lifting the inside comfort and pulling the back upwards up to a certain point. This will move the e-brake which needs to be set. You should however make sure that you do not use excessive force.
- Make sure that the connection with the cigarette lighter is disconnected from the power supply done by simply unplugging it.
- Undo the two screws that hold the back of the front comfort areas.
- Refer to the footwell on the driver’s side. Undo the latch that is holding the side cover and uproot the board.
- Allude to the travellers’ side which will make the board snap off where you can completely remove it by simply pulling it out.
- There are poppet fasteners that are holding the middle support behind the side panels that you’ve recently uprooted, Push the pin in until you hear and see a tick, once. The whole clasp can then be hauled out.
- Pull the ashtray outwards just like you usually do in normal situations and undo the only screw that is underneath it.To make the evacuation of the front segment of the middle comfort less demanding, have the shifter in 2nd, 4th, or switch and have the driver and traveler seats situated the distance back.
- Remove the cotter sticker that is holding the shifter link to the side of the interception. You will be able to do this using pincers.
- Remove the shifter cable by pulling it off. Follow down through the same path and to get to the front-left section jolt. Fix the two 12 mm jolts that are holding down the shifter section. Lift the shifter section marginally to push the metal sleeves of the bushings out of the base gradually using a flathead. Doing as such gradually will maintain a strategic distance from mischief to yourself and your ride. Attempt to position one hand under the sleeves to catch them as they’re being pushed out in a moderate way. You can likewise have somebody help you with this.
- Now, to remove them stock bushings! Keep in mind that it’s a one-piece design. Compress them so they fit through the gap. Utilize a flathead or related device to push down and sideways all the while.
- Insert the stock bushing’s metal sleeves. The level side of the sleeve will be confronting descending when introduced in the bracket.
- Push the top 50% of the new shifter bushing into the shifter section opening. Rehash this venture for alternate bushings.
- Apply small section of the poly rings under the base of the shifter section and around the top area of the bushing. There may be no system to this step. This step may be finished by “feel.” Patience is key in this case. It’s suggested that the little poly rings be connected to the front bushings first. At the point when taking a shot at the back bushings, hand-tight the jolts to keep the base bushing set up.
- Make sure that after every one of the four 12 mm jolts through the new shifter bushings. Also make sure that they are fixed in such a way that you will be able to unscrew them when you need to get a new bushing again.